How to refresh a brand that turned provocation into its signature? That was the question that accompanied the debut of Loris Messina and Simone Rizzo as creative directors of Moschino. After Adrian Appiolaza’s departure, the Sunnei founders’ duo took on the challenge of pushing the Italian house into a new phase.
Their answer arrived at Milan Fashion Week with the Spring/Summer 2027 collection. The staging transformed the rooftop of the Unipol Dome into an urban scene: people on the phone, walking dogs, or seemingly returning from work crossed paths with the models, who advanced in the opposite direction.
In that meeting between routine and the runway appeared the first hint of their proposal: to make Moschino converse with everyday clothing.
The humor of Moschino, in a softer voice
From its beginnings, Franco Moschino used fashion to play with its own rules. Tailoring, everyday objects, slogans, and visual illusions allowed him to question luxury without losing the pleasure of dressing. Messina and Rizzo revived that attitude, though they chose to express it differently.
In their debut, irony appeared in the details. There were vibrant colors, oversized fringe on Bermuda shorts and dresses, volumes that exaggerated the hips, and cat-shaped handbags. These are nods capable of catching the eye, integrated into garments that also invite imagining oneself off the runway.
A New Era for the Italian Brand
The duo had already demonstrated at Sunnei their interest in turning runways into unexpected experiences. For Moschino they preserved that curiosity, but directed it toward a different question: how to make a house known for its extravagance feel current.
The Spring 2027 collection tests a response through contrast. In front of a crowd dressed to continue their day, the models wear pieces that stand out without being trapped in the spectacle. The fantasy remains present, but now it comes a little closer to the street.
