It was not just a fashion show, but a celebration. Saint Laurent opened Paris Fashion Week with a collection that marked a milestone: the ten years of Anthony Vaccarello as creative director of the house. And it did so with an absolute lead that promises to become one of the major trends of 2027: gold.
Gold Was Much More Than a Color
At the foot of the Eiffel Tower, the house recreated the historic Imperial Salon of the Hôtel InterContinental, the same space where Yves Saint Laurent presented his haute couture collections from 1976 onward. A setting steeped in history that served as the perfect frame for a collection that constantly dialogued between the house’s legacy and Vaccarello’s contemporary vision.
Gold appeared in all its versions, from the softest tones to the most intense finishes, covering tailored suits, flowing dresses, skirts, and couture-inspired pieces. More than an aesthetic resource, the designer used it as a symbol of what endures over time, a nod to Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy and also to a decade of his own creative vision.
The Classics of Yves Saint Laurent, Reinterpreted
The collection also revisited some of the house’s most emblematic codes. The classic saharan jackets, gabardines, and wrap skirts coexisted with the pieces that are already part of Vaccarello’s universe: coats with sharply defined shoulders, oversized jackets, and minimalist mini-dresses with clean lines.
Fabrics reinforced this idea of contemporary luxury. Lamé, organza, jacquard, and latex added depth and shine, while oversized jewelry completed looks with a bold visual impact.
The Black Also Took Center Stage
Although gold dominated the runway, black — the inseparable color of Saint Laurent — closed with a stellar finale. The last looks revived the label’s characteristic drama with velvet evening gowns and gemstone accents, proving that minimalist elegance remains one of the French house’s pillars.
A Collection Celebrating a Decade of Anthony Vaccarello
With this proposal, Anthony Vaccarello not only celebrated ten years at the helm of Saint Laurent, but reaffirmed a throughline across his body of work: reinterpreting Yves Saint Laurent’s legacy from a contemporary aesthetic, where sensuality, precise silhouettes, and luxury find a perfect balance.
The collection also sends a clear message for the next season: gold returns with force. Whether in total looks or as an accent on garments and accessories, the color that long reserved for nightwear positions itself as one of the main protagonists of spring-summer 2027.
