In a Milan Fashion Week filled with premieres, changes, and new phases for some of the great Italian houses, Missoni chose to look to its own history to move forward. And it did so by taking one of its most recognizable codes, the famous zigzag, and transforming it without erasing it.
The Spring-Summer 2027 collection, designed by Alberto Caliri, was unveiled in the cloisters of San Simpliciano, in Milan, and movement served as its starting point. The aim was not to imagine a specific destination but to create a wardrobe capable of accompanying a woman who travels, changes settings and dresses in an intuitive way.
The New Zigzag of Missoni
This time, the brand’s classic motif loses its rigidity. The chevrons, stripes, and Missoni’s characteristic geometries appear looser, frayed, and even partly dissolved into the fabric, according to the maison itself.
It’s not about abandoning a symbol but dialing it down.
A Palette Inspired by the Sun, the Earth, and Summer
The color choices accompany that search for serenity. Sand, raw, tobacco, and powder pink form much of the collection, while red, yellow and blue punctuate with small bursts of color. Gold and silver also appear through metallic threads and shine.
It’s another way to understand Missoni’s colorful DNA: less explosive, but still recognizably Missoni.
The brand also proposes a very natural transition from day to night. Sequins and shimmering threads appear blended with materials that look more everyday, erasing the old boundary between practical garments and pieces designed for special occasions.
Relaxed Silhouettes and a New Idea of Luxury
Wide, low-rise pants, long and fluid shapes, cardigans, chenille garments, voluminous dresses, and pieces tightened at the waist with cords build a silhouette that avoids anything that looks too constructed.
Even the accessories follow the same logic: soft hats, large bags, and sandals paired with socks accompany looks that seem to have been built spontaneously, adding and removing layers as the moment dictates.
There is a particularly interesting idea behind this proposal: dressing well without it looking like you exerted too much effort to achieve it.
And there emerges one of the trends weaving through the Spring-Summer 2027 collections: luxury that is less rigid and more connected to garments capable of keeping up with real life.
A collection that also opens a new chapter for Missoni
The show arrives at a meaningful moment for the historic Italian house. In May 2026 the new ownership structure was finalized: FSI came to control approximately 73% of Missoni and the German group Katjes International entered with around 27%. The company then stated that the new phase would be marked by the continuity of its identity and its current management.
And the runway seems to confirm that intention.
There is no rupture with the past. There is, however, an evolution of the codes that made Missoni famous since its 1953 founding: the knit, the color, and the geometries remain, but now they speak a lighter, more everyday language.
For Caliri, who worked with Rosita Missoni, the founder’s way of traveling—light, comfortable and with a particular sophistication—also served as a reference for thinking this collection.
Thus, for the Spring-Summer 2027 season, Missoni demonstrates that an icon doesn’t need to disappear to feel new. Sometimes it suffices to soften it, deconstruct it, and let it move.
